 : Kivesvaarantie 40, Paltamo |  : 2 nights |  : Scenic Retreat |   : One more minute |
October 2026 | There is something slightly unexpected about arriving at Arctic Giant. High on Kivesvaara, an old ski resort has found a new life as a rather unusual place to stay. The former ski centre building now forms the heart of the complex, with the reception, restaurant and some of the accommodation, while various cabins are scattered around the hillside.
We stayed in an Aurora Birdhouse cabin, perched high above the surrounding landscape with a window stretching across almost the entire wall. On paper, Arctic Giant has many of the ingredients you would expect from a luxury nature stay: a private sauna, an outdoor hot tub, carefully finished interiors and views stretching far across the forests and lakes of Kainuu.
In reality, it has something else too.
Parking
Finding the right place to park was probably more complicated than parking itself.
There are several parking areas (free of charge) around the main building, but when we first arrived, we were not immediately sure how far we should drive or which spaces were intended for guests. Our advice is simply to keep going. The signs become clearer once you get further into the area.
If you are staying in one of the cabins, you can drive directly to it to unload your luggage. After that, the car should be returned to the general parking area.
Room
Arriving at the Aurora Birdhouse, you first find the private hot tub overlooking the landscape and a separate little sleeping hut. The second key you receive is for the hut, which has sleeping space for two more people and a lovely view of its own.
Inside, the view takes over. Our birdhouse had a panoramic window covering most of the wall, opening the room to the landscape below. You do not really walk over to admire the view. It is simply there all the time, pulling your attention towards it whether you are lying in bed or sitting on the sofa. Even from the sauna, the scenery remains in sight.
The cabin has a double bed with adjustable electric bases, a sofa bed and a compact kitchen.
The kitchen was surprisingly well equipped. In fact, it was difficult to think of much we would have needed for a short stay, or even a slightly longer one, that was not already there. If you are planning to cook properly, we have added a more detailed equipment list at the end of this post.
The cabin was pet-friendly, and there was some evidence of previous four-legged guests in the form of dog hair enthusiastically attaching itself to our socks. Nothing dramatic, and certainly not unexpected in pet-friendly accommodation, but something worth considering if you have allergies or simply prefer accommodation where pets are not allowed.
The outdoor hot tub was exactly where we spent a good part of the evening. With the sauna nearby and the view stretching out in front of us, we did not feel much need to add anything else to the programme.
Breakfast
Breakfast is not included in the accommodation price but can be booked separately. You can choose the buffet, have breakfast delivered to your cabin, or simply prepare your own using the kitchen facilities.
During our stay, we tried the breakfast buffet once. It is served at Makuhelmi, the restaurant in the main building.
The quantities seemed carefully matched to the number of guests rather than laid out in excessive amounts, which felt both sensible and refreshingly waste-conscious. Nothing we wanted ran out.
The selection itself was very Finnish in a pleasantly unfussy way. There were familiar cheeses and sliced meats you might actually buy for yourself at home. The juices, jams and savoury pie felt homemade, as if they had come straight from your own aunt’s kitchen.
And then there were the boiled eggs.
This is a strangely specific thing to remember from a hotel breakfast, but they may have been the best boiled eggs we have ever had at any hotel. Warm as if they had just come out of the pot, perfectly cooked and ridiculously easy to peel.
We visited outside the busiest season, so the breakfast setup may naturally be different when Arctic Giant is full.
Something We Will Remember
For all its luxury, Arctic Giant never really feels like a conventional luxury hotel.
The cabins are polished, the views spectacular and the facilities very much in premium-stay territory. Yet the atmosphere feels unexpectedly personal.
The owner turns up at breakfast in work clothes, like a Finnish farm owner making his morning round. He exchanges a few words with another guest about the mushroom harvest, pauses for a moment to take in the panoramic view and then heads off again, presumably to fix whatever needs fixing that morning.
And then there are the smaller details. A shy dog appears at reception to inspect the new arrivals. Dinner at Makuhelmi restaurant includes meat and fish patties that taste like something from a Finnish family kitchen. Donald Duck pocket books wait in the cabin.
None of these things sounds particularly luxurious on its own. Together, they make the place feel less like a resort trying to create warmth and more like someone has simply invited you somewhere very nice and happened to have an exceptional view and a hot tub waiting outside.
That combination is worth savouring.
Good to Know
- Breakfast must be booked at least one day in advance. You can choose the buffet or have it delivered to your cabin. If you are an early bird or prefer to sleep in, you can also prepare your own breakfast using the kitchen facilities and enjoy it at your own pace while taking in the views.
- Many of the accommodation options are pet-friendly. Keep this in mind if you have animal allergies or if pet hair would bother you during your stay.
- During the off-season, reception opens and breakfast is served from 9:00, so keep this in mind if you are planning an early departure.
- A range of additional activities and services can be booked separately.
- Take a trip to the roof of the main building. There is a 360-degree view over the surrounding landscape.
- The cabins include instructions for sorting waste and information about the outdoor waste collection point. This does not necessarily mean you are expected to take the rubbish out when checking out. We, however, were sufficiently Finnish to spend an embarrassing amount of time wondering about it.
What you will (probably) find in the Aurora Birdhouse
Our cabin included towels, sauna seat towels, hand towels, a tea towel, dishwashing liquid, shower gel, shampoo and conditioner.
The kitchen had wine glasses, drinking glasses, plates, cutlery, pots, scissors, a chopping board, knives, ladles, measuring cups and a bottle opener, as well as a kettle, toaster, microwave and hob.
There was also a small fridge, TV, hairdryer, air-source heat pump, vacuum cleaner, cleaning cloth, dish brush and, rather brilliantly, two head torches.
Side Quest
You do not need to get back into the car to find something to explore.
Kivesvaara has several walking routes that start close to Arctic Giant, making them an easy addition to a stay. The landscape alternates between forest, open viewpoints and glimpses across the lakes and hills of Kainuu, and you can choose the length of your walk depending on how much time you want to spend away from the hot tub.
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